FrançaisThe French have their “made in France”, the Swiss too: it is the “Swiss Made”, a label specially designed to distinguish watches manufactured or assembled on Swiss territory. Swiss Made is one of the many labels and certifications awarded by Swiss organizations to timepieces, such as the COSC, Poinçon de Genève or the Fleurier Quality Foundation label. It values both the technical quality, the innovation and the aesthetic aspect of the watches – while not forgetting to evolve with its time.
Swiss Made one day, Swiss Made always
We must go back to the 18th century to witness the birth of the Swiss Made label. At a time when counterfeits of Swiss timepieces are beginning to appear here and there, the Geneva watchmakers, in association, offer to certify the quality of local production by placing a punch on the movements. It is this idea that will lead directly to creation, a century later, when competition from American production threatens the Swiss watch industry with an official “Swiss Made” certification.
Since its launch, Swiss Made has aimed to give the Swiss watch industry the means to protect its know-how and its particularities. This need was reinforced with the “crisis of quartz” of the 70s and the arrival in mass, from Asia, products of various qualities and varied. That is why this label was officially defined in 1971 by an Ordinance regulating the use of the word “Switzerland” in relation to watches.
This has resulted in strict regulations designed to protect Swiss manufacturers, of course, but also consumers, who want to be honest about the goods. Thanks to Swiss Made, Swiss manufacturers have been able to reposition their business by aiming for quality and high-end – a change of course that certainly saved the industry during the 1980s. The national importance of this label is therefore indisputable … although sometimes disputed!
A controversial label
Indeed, Swiss Made is not immune to criticism and controversy. For years, this prestigious label has been questioned because of obsolete criteria which, in the context of the globalization of production, left room for doubt. And it was the manufacturers themselves who were the first to climb the front!
It is that, according to the ordinance of 1971, it was enough, to profit from the precious sesame:
- That the watch be assembled in Switzerland,
- That at least 50% of the value of the constituent parts of his movement is Swiss,
- That the final inspection be carried out in Switzerland.
Technically, a timepiece consisting mostly of foreign parts of lower quality, but one or two high value-added operations had been made in Switzerland, could quite claim this distinction … given the cost price of some components manufactured and assembled in the Swiss Confederation.
Swiss Made, a consolidated watch reference
For this reason, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry has chosen to change the conditions for obtaining the Swiss Made order, in order to strengthen its value. This process, launched in 2007, came into effect on January 1, 2017. It aimed to consolidate the credibility of the label, giving it all its geographical sense; fill a legal void so that no more abuse is allowed; and to guarantee the highest level of satisfaction of the buyers, who at the moment of acquiring a Swiss Made watch intend to benefit from all the added value promised by the Swiss quality requirement.
Concretely, to qualify for Swiss Made, a watch must now satisfy 60% of Swiss value in its entirety, and no longer 50% for its only movement – and this is only an intermediate step, since in a second time, this percentage should be raised to 80% for mechanical watches. Another important criterion: construction and prototyping must also be carried out in the country.
This reinforcement approach gives Swiss Made its full value, and once again fully reaffirms the know-how of Swiss watchmakers – and, in the process, restores the bond of trust with the consumer that the label was threatening to fray.